22nd July - day 4

We were later up this morning, and took our time to get ready, although we still had to be out be 8am. We went across the street to the place we had eaten the night before for breakfast and then walked the 2.5 - 3 km to the Fuente de Vino. The wine was flowing!  It was funny walking back, and one old lady was concerned the we had got lost!  I explained that we were taking the bus, due to the extreme heat and blisters and aching feet. By the time we got back to Estella it was already heating up, so we sat in the square next to the bus station and had a coffee while waiting for the bus.

It is different seeing the Camino from the bus. At Los Arcos and also at Torres del Rio several other Camino walkers to on the bus ,and they all looked really hot and exhausted.  The bus went all the way to Logrono, but we got off at Viana, and found our way to the Albergue Andres Munoz where we stayed the night.  The room was cool, with a breeze, and we were allocated bottom bunks, which is better.  We then discovered that it is the week of fiesta in Viana,and at 2pm, the Main Street was being blocked off for a bull run.  We had a glass of wine and some ponchos, and then walked back to watch. It was quite exciting to see, and we were safe behind the barrier, but the runners kept jumping over, so talking pictures was not always easy.

After they had finished, we went back to the albergue for a siesta.  It was still incredibly hot, but the breeze had picked up and our room was still cool.

Later, we went for a walk around the town, and came upon the procession for the fiesta, which we watched, and then back to the restaurant where we had had lunch, for the Pilgrim Menu evening meal.  Again it was a simple meal, but well cooked, and washed down with a local wine.  As we walked back, we saw that they were preparing for a second running of the Bulls, so we returned to the albergue.

The Bulls ran, the noise died down and I fell asleep.  At 10:30 we were woken by lights and noise.  Fireworks, and the room we were in had the piece view overlooking the garden viewing point.  We had a perfect view of them.  Overall, it was a good day, and showed that on the Camino, flexibility is needed and, at times, rewarded.

21st July - day 3

Out really early this morning, by 5am, to try to avoid some of the heat of the day. I had forgotten 2 things - how steep the first section is and how far it is from Cirauqui, where there is now cafe on the way, but requires a detour down a steep hill, and the next town of Lorca. Neither of these things was good.

It was also very hot, and so we took the bus for the final 3.5 kilometers.

Because of the heat, I am replanning some of the stages ,and taking out a couple of them.  However, the Albergue in Estella, where the boys and I chose not to stay 2 years ago, is rather nice, and I am glad we are here.

I have developed my first blister in years, and also need to remember, if I ever do this again, to go with my gut feeling about shoe size. The box area of the shoes is slightly tight and going downhill is a little painful.

Tomorrow we will visit the Fuente deal Vino, and then backtrack to the bus station. And get the bus to Viana - a chance to recharge ourselves and let our feet recover. 

We went out for a meal in the evening and were joined by a young Belgian named Michael. He started talking to us and eventually joined us.  He did not want to eat alone.  It was a very pleasant evening, and when the storm blew in, the waitress was out very quickly to close the patio roof so we didn't get wet.  The food was simple but good, and the wine went down well.  Back to the albergue for and early night, and although it was noisy outside, there were fewer interruptions and toing and froing from the dormitory and most other people sleepy early.  Lights out was at 10:30 and then it was quiet.

20th July - Day 2

The Casa Ibarrola provided a buffet style breakfast, and also had tea and coffee available at all hours. For supper last night we had some pintxos and some really lovely red wine from Navarra, the region we are in.   It is a little confusing, because the area is claimed by the Basque, but was originally a separate kingdom.

We set off early to try to avoid some of the heat.  Of course,  there is a heatwave, unlike last year which was cooler that normal.  We left the Albergue at 5:45 and made good progress through Pamplona and Cizur Menor.  Then the sun began to warm things up as we began the climb up to the Alto de Perdon. This is a steep climb, but the view is phenomenal. Unfortunately it is very steep going down, and this proved to be the most difficult section, especially as the sun got hotter and hotter.  

We stopped in Obanos for a drink and then headed on to Puente la Reina, and the albergue. We both ended up on a top bunk (not easy) and it was not the best night - hot, loud and interrupted sleep.

July 19th, 2015, day 1

Up at crack of dawn to get to Heathrow for an 8:30 flight to Bilbao. Checked in on line, but still had a long queue and for bagage drop.  However, we got through that ,and then security, and got a rather nice breakfast sausage sandwich and a cup of tea before our flight was called.

The flight to Bilbao was uneventful and it was pretty easy to get the bus into Bilbao. The main bus station is next to the rather impressive Atletic de Bilbao football stadium and the route in to town goes right past the Guggenheim museum, so I took some pictures, but didn't visit either due to time constraints.  We walked into the closest part of town and found somewhere for something to eat,and then somewhere else for coffee and a pastry.  Then back to the bus station to get the bus to Pamplona. Omce in Pamplona it was a shortish walk across the town to the albergue I had rebooked,due to our lat arrival.  It was already 6:30 pm!  I can not recommend the Casa Ibarrola enough.  Showered and clean,we walked back round to the cathedral,and the main square.  Dinner was pintxos and really good wine from Navarra.   The back to the albergue to write this and get some sleep. Tomorrow we walk the Alto de Perdon,and the forecast is for a hot day,so early night and early morning.  I am so excited to be back walking the Camino!

Hello again

Wow... there I was, going to continue blogging about the trip and it's almost 2 years later.

Time has flown by, but at the same time has dragged.  I am getting ready to walk sections of the Camino again, this time with my best friend.  I hope this blog posts and I can continue to write it while I journey to England and then on to Bilbao and Pamplona in 3 weeks' time.

More later ...

The End of the Earth

Tuesday was spent eating a leisurely breakfast, chatting with people who were leaving, taking a bag of washing to a laundry shop, and then wandering around Santiago.  We went into the cathedral and hugged the statue of Santiago, or St. James, and went down into the small crypt to see the reliquary where his bones are supposed to be.  We also did some souvenir shopping and general relaxing. 

However, on Wednesday we were up early to finish the Camino.  This time we went by bus.  It takes 3 or 4 days to walk from Santiago to Fisterra, time that we just didn't have, so we caught the bus at 9 am, and let the driver take us.  It is not a direct route, and took just over 2 hours to get to Fisterra.  From there, it is another 3 km walk out to the lighthouse and the 0.00 km way marker.  Without backpacks it is much easier to cover such a distance in a short period of time, even wearing flip flops.

I really understand why the Romans called it Finis Terra, or the end of the earthy, because it is a isthmus jutting out into the sea, and then there is just ocean.  It is really beautiful.  Of course,vase then had to walk back, and a further almost kilometer to the beach, but it was worth it.  We got bocadillos, and then spent the afternoon on a fabulous, white sand beach, with the boys swimming in the Atlantic, amongst fish.  I paddled in the cool water.  It was a great way to spent the afternoon.

 Sadly, we then had to get the bus back to Santiago, but the journey was worth it.  I am now really tired, and getting ready to leave Santiago.  I will have some thoughts on the trip to post, and more pictures later, but for now I will sign this off with some news  I got while walking.  I have been wanting to get a place for the London marathon for a while, and before we left, I applied of a bond place with a charity, as the ballot had closed before I could apply.  While walking, I heard that I have been awarded a place.  I will have more details later,  but it was a great wish, that has now been granted.  Serendipity, karma, higher power, call it what you want, it is yet another good thing that has happened on this journey, which has been amazing.

At the end of the earth, km marker 0.00, and the boys in the sea.

Rooms with a rooftop view

So , there we were in Santiago, end of the walk, but with a major flaw in the plan. We had no where to stay.  For the past almost 5 weeks, we had stayed in Albergues, or Pilgrim Hostels, which are set up on the Camino for pilgrim walkers with the Pilgrim Credential for one night stays, unless you are ill or injured. We had arrived in Santiago with no place to stay, and no real idea of what we were going to do.  Fortunately, Annette suggested the Hospedaje San Martino Pinario, which is a huge building next to the cathedral and we had walked past it on our way down to the main square in front of the cathedral.  It was a huge seminary, but now part of it is set up as a hotel and pilgrim hostel.  

After the Pilgrim Mass, and making arrangements to all meet up later of a celebratory meal, the boys and I strapped on our backpacks and went back up the stairs we had walked down 2 hours earlier, and turned left in to the Hospedaje.  There were 3 pilgrim beds at 23 euros each for 3 nights, and that included breakfast.  We took them and were then handed individual keys.  This was strange. We were used to sharing a dormitory, or at least a hotel room.  We were each given a key to individual rooms on the top floor of the building, and each room had its own individual shower/toilet room.  No matter how basic the room, to have a room to ourselves, with own toilet and washing facilities, after weeks of sharing, waiting for others to shower etc, or listening to snoring, an individual room is luxury.  We washed quickly, as we were hungry, and went out to find lunch, knowing that we could sleep later, without being disturbed.  We also had a view of the rooftops of Santiago.

We walked up to a small square and ordered drinks.  They came with a rather cool tapa - a fried egg, chips and a piece of bread.  I could have had another drink with tapa for my meal, but we had ordered bocadillos, so made our drinks last.  After lunch, we went back to the Hospedaje and took a siesta in the privacy of our own individual rooms.  

After a refreshing sleep, we went down to the Pilgrim Office with our stamped Credentials and got our Compostelas, or Certificates of Completion.  In order to get a Compostela, you have to have walked at least 100 km or cycled 200 km of the route, the Credential is stamped at every albergue you stay in, and also most bars on the Camino have a stamp, and this is proof that you have done the walking.  It also makes a great souvenir!

We then went  back to the main square in front of the cathedral and sat.  We met other walkers there and congratulated them, and then met Annette, Rune, Mark, Michelle, Laura and a couple of others and went for a celebratory meal.

However, there is still more to tell, and more pictures to share, as we still have 3 days in Santiago ...

Basic room and the view, interesting tapa and the celebratory meal of roast lamb and saffron potatoes with red pepper.

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