Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Climbing mountains again!

We started out early the next morning, and decided to take the alternative route that follows the road through the valley, given that that was a heat advisory in place.  Nico had had a very good night's sleep and was full of energy, but Jonathan and I were lagging a little.  We started out by 6:30, in the cool, crisp morning, with a light breeze making walking very pleasant.  We had had breakfast in the albergue, which was a lovely place and made good progress.  We stopped a couple of times along the way for coffee and comfort breaks, passing and repairing other pilgrims who were doing the same, and  wishing each other "Buen Camino".  

This part of Spain is still Castilla y Leon province, but the villages are now looking more and more Galician, and the road signs have been spray painted with the Galician names.

Gradually we began to climb, and a Herrerias, we stopped to buy bocadillos to go, as we knew we needed food, and were about to start the ascent to O'Cebreiro, a 700 meter ascent over 8km.  The first part is uphill, on the road, and then on to shady path that lulls you into a false sense of security, as it is gently undulating for the first part.  Then we rounded a corner and the steep climb began.  Having averaged just over 4km per hour, we slowed dramatically, although the path was mostly shaded and cool. We reached the tiny hamlet of La Faba, after 3km, and stopped for a cool drink.  We than had a decision to make.  There was an albergue 2.5kms further up, or O'Cebreiro, 5kms up and it was beginning to get hot.  We decided to try to call ahead to find out if there were beds available in Laguna la Castilla, and if we could reserve 3.  If not, we would have to make it all them way to O'Cebreiro.  The kind lady in the bar called for me, and got through on the second attempt.   They had 3 beds.  We decided to book them and wait for the morning to finish the climb.  I am vey glad we did, because the next 2.5 km were very steep, and more in the sun.  Also, during the time we had stopped for our col drink, it had got appreciably hotter.  

We reached the hamlet of Laguna individually, with me sending the boys ahead, much to the amusement of the bar/albergue people and an Irish couple I had met the day before in the albergue in Villafranca.   I finally arrived, and got us booked in.  There is by little on Laguna la Castilla except the albergue/bar/restaurant, and a few farm houses.  We went up to the room, which had 8 beds in it, but not inks, mu ch to the boys' delight, and showered, washed out clothes, rested a while and went and had a drink and a snack.  There really was nothing to do, so we rested some more, and then went down to have a little walk and a drink before dinner.  We st outside in the shade, and chatted with the Irish couple, Mark and Michelle for a while, and as we chatted a herd of cows was shepherded down the road by some dogs, and followed by a rather magnificent bull.  Unfortunately, by the time I had to the iPad out, they were gone.

We had the menu meal, which was delicious, and after a little more chat with Mark and Michelle, went to bed.  Not all the beds in the room were taken, there was an Italian couple, the man being a rugby fan who knew the parents of Lawrence D'Allaglio.  Unfortunately for me, he and the other man in the room snored, as Nico put it, like a wildebeest.  The boys both have earplugs, so they slept fairly well. I do not, so I was rather this this morning at 5:15 when the alarm went off and we got an extra early start. 

The room in the albergue, the boys outside the albergue, cows going down the hill, and a view across the valley.

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