We rounded a curve, and there, before us, was the Iron Cross. This is a small cross high up on an oak beam, surrounded by rocks. If you have seen the film The Way, you will know what I mean. There has been something there, marking that spot since Roman times, and it is a place where people leave notes, rocks, remembrances, it is a pretty mystical place. As we walked past it, we looked back and the sun was rising being it. I hope the picture I took does it justice.
The walk now is down the mountain, and that can be as tricky as going up. There path is not easy walking, with many rocks, and again, it was getting hot. A little further down the mountain is a place called Manjarin. It is a deserted village which is now occupied by one person, who describes himself as the last Knight Templar. He runs an alternative albergue, with solar heated water and an outside loo. We did not stop to take advantage of other hospitality, as I really didn't want to use the very primitive facilities, but apparently he has tea and coffee and biscuits available, free of charge.
We walked on to the next village, and stopped for a drink. Not long afterwards, Dave, the guy from Biggin Hill appeared. He had walked from Rabanal, and had had another interesting experience. We had also been passed by Gerry, our Catalan friend, who was moving very quickly, as he needed to get to Molinaseca quickly.
We continued to make our way down the mountain, over steep, rocky paths, and through another village, and finally arrived in Molinaseca. We walked over the Roman bridge, and stopped at the first bar restaurant for lunch. We had really good sandwiches there, and the people were very friendly, one even suggested a shorter route to Ponferrada, which used to be the route, until it was changed. As it was so hot, we decided to do that, as it was about 2km shorter, and by now it was very hot.
As we were leaving Molinaseca, a man on the same route struck up a conversation with me. We walked and talked the 6km to Ponferrada, and even with the heat, it went quickly for me. It was about 2pm when we arrived at the albergue, hot and tired. In the middle of the entryway was a fountain, with people sat round, cooling their feet of. We checked in, dumped our backpacks, and joined them. Then it was the usual routine of shower, wash out clothes and rest. Unfortunately,Nico then discovered that he had left his towel in the albergue at Foncebadon, and this was rather upsetting. We shared towels, and got things washed, and later on went into the town to look for a shop. This Xmas to prove difficult, as many shops shut on Saturday afternoons. We walked past the Templar castle, to the shop we had been told bout, but it was shut. We went to the supermarket and got food for the evening, and then back to the tourist office to see if there were any shops that might be open. The lady in the tourist office was very helpful, sadly the castle was closed to visitors due to the Templar Festival, but there was a shop about 15-20 minutes walk that would have what we needed. I sent the boys back to prepare supper and started to walk. It was more than 20 minutes, and it was still very hot. I finally found the shop, bought large quick dry towels for all of us, which are much bigger than the ones we have, and much cheaper, and walked back. It took me well over an hour, but I was successful, and so were they boys in preparing dinner.
Nico and I went to the Mass and Pilgrim Blessing, while Jonathan washed up. Then to the foot pool again to cool off before bed, as we were making and early start in the morning.
The Iron Cross, the albergue San Nicolas Flue in Ponferrada and the Templar Castle.
Enjoying reading your blog, Tex. Keep up the good work :)
ReplyDeleteMrsG