Leon

Sadly, Jonathan did not get a good night's sleep, and was by tired again this morning.  The lights came on at 6:30, but I was already awake, because other walkers had got up at 5am, and were long gone. The albergue provides a light breakfast, which is paid for by donations.  We put a donation in the box, but I heard comments from the hospitaleros that people were leaving without doing so.  I also heard one say that this year there are many more young people who are not taking the time to clean up after themselves, and are not using the facilities in line with the spirit of the Camino. That made me sad. Last night the nun had explained the significance of the rocks left along the way.  The original early pilgrims had carried a large rock on their back, not a back pack, and at each cross, they had chiseled off a piece, as if leaving a sin on the way.  Thus, when they arrived at Santiago, they were freed of the last piece of rock, as a metaphor for being liberated from their sins, because a pilgrimage such as this one was an act of penitence.  To hear that people are abusing the hospitality and kindness shown to them in albergues, which run on donations and volunteers, made me sad.  One of the hospitaleros also commented about how much I do for the boys, how I look after them, instead of them looking after me. This is not the first time that has been said to me on this trip, and somehow I need to teach them to be more independent, and step back.

As we left, we were embraced by 2 of the volunteers, who somehow knew that the boys and I were disappointed in the poor behavior of some of our fellow walkers.  They seemed to know that the boys and I are getting so much out of this experience.

 It was still early, so we walked up to the cathedral square, and marveled at the outside of the building and how amazing the architecture and engineering is.  Then we went to a cafe for "second breakfast" as it was still too early to go to the hotel.  It was another great experience - we got an extra little pastry to go with our coffee/hot chocolate.

After writing and posting some postcards, we went to the hotel.  Even though it was early, our room was available, so we were able to leave our backpacks and boot in the room before heading out to the tourist information centre to get a good map, and the San Isidoro basilica and museum.  We also stopped at a Pharmacy to get some plugs for the boys for the rest of the journey!

San Isidoro is beautiful.  The museum is fascinating, with 10th century painting and bibles and choir books, and other treasures that you are not allowed to photograph.  They are indescribable - a chalice donated by Queen Urraca made of gold, amethyst and onyx, the reliquary of San Isidoro, other boxes with ivory inlay and other techniques dating back from the 10th and 11th centuries. Again we were in awe.

We left San Isidoro and had lunch , still thinking abut the treasures we had seen.  Then it was back to the hotel for a siesta, and the boys were soon fast asleep.