Santiago or bust!

We were up at dark o'clock, and out of the albergue just after 6pm, which was still before sunrise, but we were not the first ones out of the albergue.  We walked quickly, through the woods, using the knuckle lights to light the way. We were closely followed by someone without a torch/flashlight, and at one point were asked by another group which way we had to go.  The knuckle lights were great, and it was cool, and a little eerie walking through the woods so early in the morning.   None of the bars on Pedrouzo had been open, so we were very glad to come through a tunnel/underpass and find a cafe open after about 3.5 km  of walking (which had only taken us 45 minutes!).  We dropped the backpacks outside and went in, going through a cafeteria line and getting breakfast.  As we paid, we saw Mark, Michelle and Laura just about finding their breakfast and heading out again.

 We sat outside eating breakfast as the sun began to rise, and then we were on our way again.  It was as if something was impelling Jonathan along the track.  He was going like a train - none of his usual complaining that I was speeding up on the levels or descents.  He was determined to reach Santiago for the Pilgrim Mass, and nothing was going to stop him.  Because of this, we made great time, and were walking at between a 4.5 - 5km pace, the fasted we had done all trip.  At the next cafe en route, we stopped for Nico to got to the bathroom and get a cup of coffee.  Mark, Michelle and Laura were sitting there.  Nico went to the loo, and Jonathan went in to order some coffee.  He was totally ignored by the wait-staff, much to his annoyance, and after 2 other people had been served before him, he came out rather disgruntled.  There was a water fountain outside, so we just refilled our water bottles and walked on, joining Mark, Michelle and Laura. 

Jonathan was still going like a train, and we actually left Mark and Laura a little way behind us, but Michelle was in conversation with me and the boys, and so we kept going, deciding that at Monte de Gozo, we would have a bit of a longer break, while they caught up.  There is a pilgrim monument at Monte de Gozo and a huge municipal albergue and sports and leisure complex.  We took a couple of photos, had a coffee, rested and then walked. This time the boys talked with Mark and Michelle and I went a little ahead, and very soon we entered the outskirts of Santiago.  We were still following the yellow way markers, and moving fairly quickly.  We stopped for a brief comfort break at a bar and also bought a bottle of water, a donut and some crisps, and then we were off again.  

Suddenly we were walking down the side of the cathedral and into the square in front of the cathedral. It was only just past 11 am.  We had covered just over 20 km in 5 hours, and had had 4 breaks during that time, although 2 of them had been short.  I couldn't believe it.  There we were, in the main square outside the cathedral - 800 kilometers/500 miles of walking were over.  We had arrived.  We all congratulated each other, took pictures, said hello to other walkers we had seen on the way, and just stood in awe at the cathedral and our achievement.

After a while we went in to the cathedral and found seats for the mass.  It was at very moving experience, especially when, at the end, the big incense burner, the botafumeiro was lit and then swung. 

We may have arrived at Santiago, but the story is not complete yet.

Santiago cathedral, outside the cathedral, Jonathan and then Nico on the floor, inside the cathedral.