From Palas do Rei to Arzua

Another night of interrupted sleep, and we were all really slow in the morning.  We tried to be up and out early, but we didn't manage to leave until 7:20, which is decidedly late for walking the Camino, especially with the impending heat. However, we weren't the last to leave.  Someone was still sleeping, although how, I don't know, with the noise of about 10 other people packing up.  On the other hand, I have slept through people leaving early, and by early I mean by 5am, which is still dark o'clock to me.

Anyway, we set out, having had breakfast, and walked through misty fields and woodland, for about 8.5km until we came to a suitable stop for second breakfast.  This consisted of bread and jam for the boys and a cake for me, no photos, because it was still misty and chilly and threatening to rain, and I got cold!

We walked on, over a really cool bridge, and Nico and I did the "none shall pass" pose, which, of course, is on the other camera, past a monument to some Camino de Santiago group, which is right by an industrial estate, and into Melide.  Melide is a bit of urban sprawl to start with and then the town gets interesting.  By now it was time for elevenses, and we stopped at a pulperia, or octopus bar.  Galicia is famous for its "pulpo gallego" and now was the time to try it.  We went in and order a small plate of pulpo, and a plate of tortilla espanola and drinks.  I pulled the iPad out to take a couple of pictures, and before I was able to put it back, the boys had practically finished the pulpo.  It was delicious, and well worth the stop.

We made our way through the busy streets of Melide, to the Romanesque church of Santa Maria, where we passed our pilgrim Credentiales up to have them stamped, and then down yet another hill, and back into shaded forest paths. 

By now it was getting very hot, and we were all dragging.  We walked through a place called Boente, but didn't see anywhere for lunch so continued on to Castaneda, and stopped at the first cafe we came to. It was almost 2pm, about 3 hours since elevenses, no wonder we were dragging.  Jonathan and I ordered cheese bocadillos and Nico had Serrano ham.  The cheese was the local product and it was incredible - creamy, rich, full of flavor, but not overpowering, it took me 40 minutes to eat it, it was so good.   Revived by a great lunch, we walked quickly down to Ribadiso, where we were planning to stop.  However, the boys out-voted me, and we decided to continue on to Arzua, because we weren't

Impressed with the look of either of the albergues.

The hill up from Ribadiso was almost the end of me.  It was incredibly steep and long in the full heat of the day.  However, I am glad that we did it then, and not the following morning. We were also walking alongside the road for this section, and it seemed to go on forever.  Jonathan had picked out an albergue which looked good in the photo of the guide book, but really was rather dark and felt oppressive to me.  It was right as we arrived in Arzua, and I felt that as we had come this far, we may as well continue on into the town centre.  I am glad that we did.  We got to the municipal albergue, which was full, and the next one we tried was also full, but the lady suggested one just off the Camino, round the corner, called the Via Lactea.  At 12 euros each it is the most expensive albergue we have stayed in, but it was so worth it.  It was cool, and I was given a bunk in the corner, away from the light.    The kitchen was really well equipped, and the boys decided they would cook, especially as there were at least 2 packets of pasta that had been left by others to use by those following.  After showering and getting the dirty clothes handed over to be washed in the washing machine, we went out to find a supermarket.

As we were walking up, we met Margaret and Mathilde, who were also heading for the supermarket.  Margaret insisted that we join them for a drink after shopping, so we walked back to the main square, as it was between both albergues.  In the supermarket, we bought freshly made meatballs at the meat counter, and an onion, courgette and red pepper to go with the pasta.  

As we we sitting having our drinks, a small band walked through, playing traditional music.  It is the start of the celebration of the patron saint of Arzua, and we happened to be there.  It was fun.  We sat and chatted, but then had to get back to cook.  On the way back to our albergue, we stopped in the cake shop and bought something for dessert.

Back at the albergue, the washing was done and Jonathan hung it up while Nico and I chopped everything quickly, and got dinner going. The meatballs were delicious, and the pasta with the vegetables was good as well.

As Jonathan got ready for bed he realised that he had left his water bottle on the table at the bar where we had had our drink with Margaret and Mathilde.  I was so tired that I told him to solve it for himself, so he put his shorts on and went back to see if it was there.  I waited by the door of the albergue, and he soon returned with it.  He had gone to the bar, explained in Spanish what had happened, and the barman reached down and got it for him.  They had kept it behind the bar, in case he came back.  I was really proud of him for doing that.  He had used his Spanish very successfully, and because the bar was so close I felt he could do it.

We then settled down to sleep, knowing that we needed at early start in the morning.

More woodland paths, eating pulpo, and sitting in the square having a drink.