More Leon

In the late afternoon, we walked out of the hotel to the church next door.  Again, the architecture and engineering outside, sand the artistry inside are stunning.  There was also a small museum with only one room open.  Inside it had a tombstone bearing the coat of arms of the Cabeza de Vaca family ,and also a little history of the cloister area.  Francisco Quevedo, a Spanish writer, had been imprisoned there in 1636, in his later life, for a critical comment made against one of the King's advisors. He had been dragged there in the middle of winter, with barely a blanket, and left of 3 years, with no help, and living. Off the charity of others.  He died from illness some 2 years after his release. Some 300 years later, Francisco Franco had used the same building as a concentration camp during the Spanish Civil War. Reading this left us chilled, so we walked out into the sunshine and down to the cathedral area.

We met a few people that we have chatted to on the walk.  They were really excited that we were taking time out to visit and experience their country.  As we walked down to the Plaza Mayor, we met the Chica Loca, or crazy girl, who had been so worried about Nico's blisters way back in Najera.  She could not believe how well they had healed.  She had had to catch a bus a couple of times, because her blisters had got so bad.

We were looking for the church of San Martin.  It was hidden round the back of the PlazaMayor, and when we found it, it was shut.  We walked round a little further, but there was no other door.  As we walked back, the doors were opened,  another moment of serendipity, so we went in.  This is a simpler church, but again with the vaulted gothic ceiling.  Over the alter hung a large crucifix, and the lighting was such that behind, but on either side was a clear shadow, which made it look like the 2 other people who were crucified alongside Jesus.  It was special.  We sat and contemplated this for a while, and then quietly left.

 

The bright sunshine warmed us again,and we stopped to have drink in the cathedral square.  It was a beautiful evening, and most of Leon was out walking or having something in a bar.  Nico and i had real horchata de chufas, and Jonathan had a fruit smoothie.  We explored a little more and then decided to find somewhere to eat.  It was still a little early for tapas, but we found a small place and order a racion of croquetas, patatas  in garlic mayonnaise and chorizo in wine.  It was delicious, but the croquetas were eaten before I could take a picture.