Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero

We were up early this morning, ate breakfast and then set out to walk.  The backpacks were heavier than yesterday because the water bottles were full and we also had food for lunch and snacks.  

As Nico was tying his boots, a Spanish man stopped him and showed him a different way, tying the laced part and then the loops.  That way the foot stays secure and the part around the ankle is tighter. It has made a difference to him already.

Sahagun is a strange village, but the old main gate and the bridge over the river were amazing. After a couple of days off, walking was a little more difficult,  we then had to make a decision - the Camino has 2 routes.  Originally we were going to take the old Roman road, but we decided to follow the route that goes next to the road.  It is longer today,  but shorter tomorrow, and there are 2 towns.  It being Sunday tomorrow, I am a little concerned about getting food on the long stretch.

We stopped for coffee at the first village, and the boys had "second breakfast" of a chocolate croissant.  We then stopped at the little grocery store to try to get a single packed of pocket tissues.  The 2 women serving were deep in conversation with the person they were serving, and were taking a long time.  A little old lady came in behind us, and asked what we wanted.  When I said a packet of tissues, she said  to ask, and when I couldn't get the shopkeeper's attention, she motioned to us to follow her,as she only lived the other side of the road and she would give us some.  We followed her, and sure enough, she soon stopped and went into her house and came out with pocket packets of tissues.  She gave one to each of us and then an extra one to me.  I could not thank her enough, and she wished us "buen camino" and we left her, rather surprised and a little overcome with the unexpected generosity.

We continued walking along the poplar-lined road, until we arrived at El Burgo Ranero. The albergue was closed until 1pm, and it was only 12:10, so we ate our chorizo sandwiches and waited. There was another pilgrim walker waiting, and he had an attack of sneezing.  I paid forward the earlier kindness of the lady in Bercianos by giving him the extra packet of tissues.

  I then walked down to the shop and bought some milk, and by the time I got back the albergue was open.  We were greeted with hugs and kisses from the hospitaleros, registered and went to our beds.  It is a strange place, and I can't quite describe why.  We showered, washed our clothes, and then Nico and Jonathan were invited to play cards.  I went upstairs to take a siesta.  A little while later, Jonathan came up and said they were setting up for dinner and they had been invited.   The albergue itself is run on donations, so I will leave a little more, to cover their food.  I need to go to the shop and get something for breakfast and lunch tomorrow because there is a long stretch without anything, not even a fountain,so we need to be well supplied before we set out.

I went back to the little shop and got eggs, cheese, ham and bread for the morning, I also made myself an omelet with some of the cheese for supper.  KJ,, the tallest Swedish guy I have even met was at the albergue..   We met way back in Roncesvalles, and  had not seen him since Larrasoana.  Wee had met again in Sahagun -he is a very interesting person and the boys and I like  talking with him.

 Jonathan and I were tired,so went to bed early, while Nico stayed downstairs and chatted with people.  Gerry, a way-walker from Catalina, was very funny, and has excellent English, having spent time in St. Ives in Cornwall.  He had acted as hospitalero when we arrived, and was great at welcoming everyone.  The conversation was lively, we could hear it from the dormitory, but eventually sleep came, and Nico also went to bed. The albergue was made of traditional building material  - mud and straw, and the walls were very thin.  The beds were also the creakiest ever, and so none of us slept very well.  We were up and out early the next morning, on towards Leon.

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